Ryder Cup Redux
Last fall’s matches made it more than clear that
Dublin, Ireland is a great golf destination
By Danny Freels

|

I hate to say it, but sometimes clichés do work; actually can say it all on occasion. For example, if I wanted to describe what a golf trip to Ireland was like, I could pick “Kid in a candy store” or “It doesn’t get any better than this,” and I would have no problem using either one. I’ve been lucky to make three golf trips to Ireland – to the northwest (including Northern Ireland), southwest and east coast – and each was a wonderful experience. The people are friendly and fun, the scenery is beautiful, and the courses are good to glorious.
Last spring, in anticipation of the Ryder Cup matches in September – the first time this competition would be held in Ireland – I traveled with a group of golf writers to check out a few courses around Dublin. Now, if you followed the Ryder Cup at all last fall you no doubt heard negative comments about the site of the event: the American-feeling Palmer course at the K Club in nearby Straffan. While I certainly shared some of those emotions – believing along with others that an Irish links course would have been a more appropriate venue – I found nothing negative about the K Club’s original layout (a second course, Smurfit, opened in 2003). The Palmer course is big, beautiful, very challenging and, yes, very American. But it’s very enjoyable, too, and as long as you make sure to play a few of the links courses in the area (Portmarnock and The European Club are among the world’s best), I’d certainly recommend a visit to the K Club.
Another links course that I would highly recommend sits along the coast some 35 miles north of Dublin and maybe four miles east of the city of Drogheda. County Louth Golf Club – also known as “Baltray” for the village where it’s located – was founded in 1892. Its links, however, only dates to 1938, when the original course here was remodeled by Tom Simpson. Sorry to use another cliché, but County Louth is “links golf at its best”. Wild looking and wind swept (the Irish Sea is close by), many of the holes weave their way through tall, grass-covered sand dunes. Deep pot bunkers abound, the rough is thick and gnarly, and the greens are firm, frequently well-sloped and very fast. County Louth is very different than what we’re used to here in “the States”, but it’s a blast.
Also a lot of fun is the semi-links course at Seapoint Golf Club (a couple of miles north of County Louth) and the parkland-style layout at Dundalk Golf Club (twenty miles or so further on). The younger of the two is Seapoint, a 1993 design by Declan Branigan and Des Smyth (one of Ireland’s greatest players and a current member of the Champions Tour). I refer to Seapoint as a “semi-links” simply because there are a number of ponds in play on the front nine (untypical of a real links). On the back it’s quite linksy, particularly the final four holes which run along a stretch of sand dunes overlooking the beach and the ocean. Trust me: the view from the tee at Seapoint’s par-three 17th – with the Irish Sea to the right and the Mourne Mountains of Northern Ireland rising majestically in the distance beyond the green and the clubhouse – is absolutely spectacular.
Even closer to the Mountains of Mourne (and the Cooley Mountains as well) is Dundalk, a golf club founded in 1895. The club moved to nearby Blackrock in 1922 and opened a new course a year later. In 1967, the course was reconfigured to its present routing. Prior to its centenary celebration in 2005, Dundalk’s conditioning was greatly improved and the course was lengthened to 6,826 yards from the back tees. Parkland in style, Dundalk features wide fairways, lots of trees, lots of sand and large, well-sloped putting surfaces. Much like a links course, however, many of the greens are open in front and frequently offer the option of running the ball up. Believe it: the use of a putter within 40 yards of a green is a good way to go. Another good tip when visiting Dundalk is to play the pretty little course called Ballymascanlon. Located just north of the city on the grounds of the Ballymascanlon House Hotel, this short but often tight layout features several very good holes. It’s not nearly as easy as it looks, and it’s a great place to get your game in shape.
If parkland courses are your preference, one place you don’t want to miss is Headfort Golf
Club. Located thirty miles northwest of Dublin, just outside the historic town of Dells (known for its collection of ancient Celtic crosses), this very pretty 36-hole facility is built on the former estate of Thomas Taylor, the Marquess of Headfort in the late 1700s. The original course here – the Old – is a pretty but tricky little tree-lined tract that dates to 1928. In 2001, however, a second and much more demanding course opened at Headfort. Designed by Ireland’s Christy O’Connor Jr., one of the heroes of the ‘89 Ryder Cup Matches, the New is a sturdy, somewhat hilly layout that I have no doubt is a good test for even the best players. It measures 7,125 yards from the championship markers (three others are available), water is in play off the tee or near the green on 12 of the 18 holes, there are more than a few tall and/or wide trees to avoid, and the good-sized greens are challenging. From tees that match your ability, however, Headfort’s New course is very playable and a delightful experience. The former mansion of Marquess of Hedfort, built in 1780 and visible from many of the holes, is pretty cool, too.
Three courses in the Dublin area I didn’t get to play – but would have liked to – were The Heritage at Killenard (County Laois), Roganstown Golf & Country Club (near Dublin International) and Rathsallagh House Golf & Country Club (County Wicklow). The Heritage is a very pretty but tough-looking tract designed by Jeff Howes and Spanish star Seve Ballesteros; Roganstown and Rathsallagh are two other long and lovely layouts by Christy O’Connor Jr. The accommodations at all three, by the way, are first-rate.
I was fortunate to play one of the courses at Druid’s Glen in Newtownmountkennedy (yes, that’s the name) south of Dublin. The better known of the two layouts here is flower-filled Druid’s Glen, site of the Irish Open from 1996 to 1999 and often called “The Augusta of Europe” (without the azaleas). I played the Pat Ruddy-designed Druid’s Heath course, the newer of the two (2003) and the longest by a lot. In fact, at 7,434 yards from the tips, this hilly heathland layout is almost 400 yards longer than Druid’s Glen. Add to it the fact that Druid’s Heath is close to the Irish Sea and windy, and I can assure you this is one goraille of a golf course (that’s Gaelic for “gorilla”). Even from the green tees (6,547 yards, 3rd furthest), it’s very difficult. Many of its longer holes play uphill, there are numerous fairway bunkers, and there’s lots of gorse to gobble up golf balls. It’s tough, but it’s fair. And the views from Druid’s Heath – of the sea, the Wicklow Mountains and the rolling Irish countryside – will make you think you’ve “died, and gone to heaven”.
And that’s another cliché that pretty much says it all about a golf trip to the Emerald Isle.
|