Northern Exposure

Idaho's panhandle area has a grip on great golf




It is a little known fact that Idaho’s panhandle is the only one in America that is bordered by two other states and a foreign country. Not many people know that actress Lana Turner was born here, either. Or that Lewis & Clark came through northern Idaho on their way to the Pacific in 1805 and again on their way back in 1806. Coeur d’Alene — the biggest city in the panhandle; population: 38,000 — is the name of the largest lake in the area as well. It’s also home to two of the eight courses on the Idaho Golf Trail. Until I made a visit there last spring, I did not know any those things. Or that northern Idaho is one pretty place to play golf.


For those of us in the Great Lakes area (and most of Canada), the best way to get to Coeur d’Alene is to fly into Spokane, Washington. From there, it’s about a 45-minute drive — the foothills of the Rocky Mountains rarely out of sight — to the golf course at the Coeur d’Alene Resort and Hotel. Trust me: when you see this beautiful facility on the banks of Lake Coeur d’Alene, it will be hard to believe that a saw mill stood here from 1916 to 1988. In 1991 — three years after the mill was purchased and torn down — this stunning Scott Miller-designed layout opened. Unfairly, I think, the course at Coeur d’Alene is mainly known for one hole: the 14th. The reason is because the 15,000-square-foot green complex of this par three (complete with two bunkers, two flower beds and four trees) sits out in the lake. To be more precise, this island green floats on the lake. It’s attached to cables that are run by computer and it allows this unique hole to be lengthened or shortened every other day or so (usually between 100-200 yards). Equally unique is how golfers get to the green after they hit their tee shots: a small, piloted boat shuttles them there and back. And the 14th is a hoot to play, even if you hit it in the drink and make double as I did.


But trust me again: there’s much more to experience than one cool hole.


First of all, the rest of this golf course is absolutely beautiful. Tall juniper and pine trees border many of the holes. There are tons of flowers, lots of sand, and several more places where water comes into play. And while the front nine does feel a bit cramped at one point in the routing (due to the use of three par 3s within six holes), the scenery and challenge are so enjoyable you don’t care. The back nine, on the other hand, is a tad longer, arguably prettier, and definitely more demanding (portions of the lake are also in play at the 11th, 12th and 13th). Overall, the course at Coeur d’Alene is a challenging but fun layout that’s always in superb condition. It’s only 6,735 yards from the back tees (four others are available), but I suspect it’s still a fairly good test for better players and big hitters a well.


The main structure of the beautiful hotel here is an 18-story tower that features 338 rooms of varying comfort and luxury. Boat rides on the 30-mile-long lake are available and highly recommended.


Another ride that golfers should take is the one that gets them from Coeur d’Alene to the tiny town of Worley, 30 minutes to the southwest. There they’ll find Circling Raven Golf Club, one of the most challenging but enjoyable layouts in the state. Owned and operated by the Coeur d’Alene Indian Tribe (operators of the casino and hotel next door), Circling Raven is a Gene Bates design that opened in 2003. Big, brawny and beautiful, Circling Raven is also very playable — especially if golfers choose tees that match their ability (7,189 yards from the back tees; four others are available). A great deal of the difficulty here is due to a number of forced carries, mostly over wetlands or fields of high grasses and particularly off the tee. Circling Raven is also beautifully bunkered. Also difficult will be keeping your concentration because of the scenery. Numerous tall pines dot the property, and it’s surrounded by rolling hills, massive meadows and majestic mountains. It’s quite a sight and quite a golf course, with one sensational hole after another. In 2007, the SAGAT Survey — for the second year in a row — named Circling Raven one of the best places to play golf in America. I couldn’t agree more.


But then, I could say that for Idaho’s panhandle, too.

 


 

 

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